Tiqr Encyclopedia

The Watch
Reference Library.

Every significant reference from Rolex and Omega — production years, case specs, movements, dial variants, collector notes, and current market values. Community-verified, continuously updated.

42 references

Rolex

24 references

Founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf, Rolex has become the world's most recognisable luxury watch manufacturer. From the first waterproof Oyster case to the perpetual rotor movement, Rolex pioneered nearly every major horological innovation of the 20th century. Their sport references — Submariner, GMT-Master, Daytona — are the benchmarks against which all others are measured.

Submariner Family
Ref. 6204
Submariner "First Sub"
1953 – 1955
Dive 100m WR Grail
Case
36mm · Oystersteel · No crown guards
Movement
Cal. A260 · Manual wind
Water Resistance
100m (later increased)
Crystal
Acrylic (hesalite)
Key Variants
No lume plots Mercedes hands Big crown version No depth markers

The first Submariner ever produced, with no crown guards and a simple bi-directional bezel. A true pioneer piece — remarkably few survive in any condition. One of the most sought-after vintage references in all of horology.

Est. Market Value$80,000–$250,000+↑ Increasing
Ref. 5512
Submariner "Crown Guards"
1959 – 1979
Dive 200m WR Highly Collectible
Case
40mm · Oystersteel · Crown guards introduced
Movement
Cal. 1560/1570 · Automatic
Water Resistance
200m
Crystal
Acrylic (hesalite)
Key Variants
4-line dial 2-line dial Pointed crown guards Gilt dials Matte black dial

Introduced crown guards for the first time, a signature Submariner feature ever since. Early gilt dial examples with the 4-line text and "meters first" depth rating are among the most desirable Rolex vintage pieces. The 5512 without date is purer to dive watch purists.

Est. Market Value$15,000–$60,000↑ Increasing
Ref. 1680
Submariner Date "Red Sub"
1965 – 1979
Dive Date Red Writing
Case
40mm · Oystersteel · Quickset date
Movement
Cal. 1570/1575 · Automatic
Water Resistance
200m
Crystal
Acrylic (hesalite)
Key Variants
Red "Submariner" text White text Mk I–VII dials Tropical dials

The first Submariner with a date complication. Early examples with red "SUBMARINER" text on the dial (known as "Red Subs") command enormous premiums. Tropical dial versions — where the dial has faded to warm brown tones — can fetch multiples of standard examples.

Est. Market Value$12,000–$80,000+↑ Increasing
Ref. 16610
Submariner Date
1988 – 2010
Dive Date 300m WR
Case
40mm · Oystersteel
Movement
Cal. 3135 · Automatic
Water Resistance
300m
Crystal
Sapphire with Cyclops
16610LV "Kermit" (2003) Black dial Swiss only dial T-Swiss dial

The "classic modern" Sub for a generation of collectors. Introduced the 3135 movement — still considered one of Rolex's finest calibers. The 2003 "Kermit" variant with green bezel was the first Submariner with colour since the 1960s.

Est. Market Value$9,000–$14,000→ Stable
Ref. 126610LN
Submariner Date (Current)
2020 – Present
Dive Date 300m WR Current
Case
41mm · Oystersteel
Movement
Cal. 3235 · Automatic · 70hr reserve
Water Resistance
300m
Crystal
Sapphire with Cyclops
126610LV "Cermit" (green bezel) 126619LB (white gold, blue) 126618LB (yellow gold)

A refined evolution upsized to 41mm with the new cal. 3235 boasting 70hr power reserve and improved Chronergy escapement. The wider lugs and slightly larger bezel numerals modernised the silhouette. Still the most allocated watch at AD networks worldwide.

Est. Market Value$14,500–$18,000↑ Premium over RRP
GMT-Master Family
Ref. 6542
GMT-Master "First GMT"
1955 – 1959
GMT Bakelite Bezel Grail
Case
38mm · Oystersteel · No crown guards
Movement
Cal. 1036 · Automatic
Bezel
Original bakelite · Red/black
Developed for
Pan American Airways pilots
Bakelite bezel (fragile) Later aluminium bezel Gilt dials Tropical brown dials

Developed with Pan American Airways to allow pilots to track two time zones simultaneously. The original bakelite bezel is extremely fragile and rarely survives intact — a complete original example with uncracked bakelite is extraordinarily rare and commands extraordinary prices.

Est. Market Value$40,000–$200,000+↑ Increasing
Ref. 1675
GMT-Master "Pepsi / Root Beer"
1959 – 1980
GMT Aluminium Bezel Highly Collectible
Case
40mm · Oystersteel · Crown guards
Movement
Cal. 1565/1575 · Automatic
Bezel
Aluminium insert · Bi-colour
Crystal
Acrylic (hesalite)
Pepsi (blue/red) Root Beer (brown/gold) Gilt dial Matte dial 4-line text

The quintessential vintage GMT. The "Pepsi" bezel (red/blue) nickname dates to this era. "Root Beer" versions in brown/gold are rarer and command significant premiums. Worn by Steve McQueen in the film "Le Mans" — cultural cachet adds further collectability.

Est. Market Value$10,000–$40,000↑ Increasing
Ref. 16710
GMT-Master II
1989 – 2007
GMT Independent GMT Hand
Case
40mm · Oystersteel
Movement
Cal. 3185/3186 · Automatic
GMT Hand
Independently adjustable
Bezel
Aluminium insert
PEPSI (red/blue) COKE (black/red) All-black Transitional dials

Introduced the independently settable local hour hand — a genuine upgrade over the original GMT. The "COKE" variant (black/red bezel) is especially desirable to collectors. Late "transitional" examples that look like older models but have the II designation are sought after.

Est. Market Value$10,000–$16,000→ Stable
Ref. 126710BLRO
GMT-Master II "Pepsi" (Current)
2018 – Present
GMT Jubilee Bracelet Most Wanted
Case
40mm · Oystersteel
Movement
Cal. 3285 · 70hr power reserve
Bezel
Cerachrom ceramic · Red/Blue
Bracelet
Jubilee (first time on GMT)

Reintroduced the Pepsi bezel in ceramic — virtually scratch-proof compared to aluminium predecessors. The Jubilee bracelet was unexpected and divides opinion, but most agree it suits the watch. Among the hardest Rolex pieces to acquire at retail.

Est. Market Value$17,000–$22,000↑ Significant premium
Daytona Family
Ref. 6239
Cosmograph Daytona "First Daytona"
1963 – 1969
Chrono Manual Wind Paul Newman Dials
Case
37mm · Oystersteel · Screw-down pushers
Movement
Cal. 722 (Valjoux) · Manual wind
Tachymetre
On dial (first variant)
Crystal
Acrylic (hesalite)
Standard black dial Standard white dial Paul Newman (exotic) dial Tropical dials

The reference that started it all. "Paul Newman" dials — exotic dials with Art Deco-inspired subdials — are among the most valuable wristwatches ever sold. Newman's own ref. 6239 sold at Phillips in 2017 for $17.75M. Even standard examples are deeply desirable.

Est. Market Value$30,000–$17,750,000↑ Paul Newman premium
Ref. 16520
Cosmograph Daytona "Zenith"
1988 – 2000
Chrono Zenith Caliber Transitional
Case
40mm · Oystersteel
Movement
Cal. 4030 (modified Zenith El Primero)
Frequency
36,000 vph (10 Hz)
Crystal
Sapphire
Black dial (most sought) White dial Patina black dial Porcelain white dial

Rolex used a modified Zenith El Primero movement while developing their in-house caliber. The black dial "Zenith" Daytona is one of the most iconic references in collecting — Sopranos scenes, celebrity wrists. Highly liquid on the secondary market.

Est. Market Value$22,000–$45,000↑ Increasing
Ref. 116500LN
Cosmograph Daytona (Current Steel)
2016 – Present
Chrono Ceramic Bezel Most Allocated
Case
40mm · Oystersteel
Movement
Cal. 4130 · In-house · 72hr reserve
Bezel
Cerachrom ceramic tachymetre
Crystal
Sapphire
Black dial (panda) White dial (reverse panda) Meteorite dial (limited)

Arguably the most impossible-to-buy watch at retail worldwide. The ceramic tachymetre and in-house caliber 4130 marked a serious upgrade. The "reverse panda" white dial with black sub-dials is particularly sought after. Market prices have eased from pandemic peaks but remain substantial.

Est. Market Value$28,000–$40,000↓ Correcting from peak
Explorer, Datejust & Day-Date
Ref. 1016
Explorer
1963 – 1989
Explorer Minimalist Purist Icon
Case
36mm · Oystersteel
Movement
Cal. 1560/1570 · Automatic
Dial
Black · 3-6-9 Arabic · No date
Lume
Various — tritium era

26 years in production with almost no visible change — a testament to how perfect the design was from the start. The Explorer 1016 is the quintessential "purist's Rolex": no date, no complications, just perfect legibility. Among the most wearable Rolex references ever made.

Est. Market Value$8,000–$20,000↑ Growing appreciation
Ref. 1601
Datejust
1960 – 1978
Dress Date Two-Tone Available
Case
36mm · Oyster or Jubilee
Movement
Cal. 1570 · Automatic
Dial Options
Vast — many materials
Bezel
Fluted or smooth
Black dial White dial Silver dial Champagne dial Gilt dials Two-tone Rolesor

The Datejust invented the date window with magnifying Cyclops lens. The 1601 era produced some of the most beautifully aged dials in Rolex history — gilt printing, tropical colours, and extraordinary patina. The reference that made Rolex a household name.

Est. Market Value$3,500–$12,000→ Stable
Ref. 1803
Day-Date "President"
1956 – 1977
Dress Gold Only Heads of State
Case
36mm · 18k Gold (yellow/white/rose)
Movement
Cal. 1555 · Automatic
Bracelet
President bracelet (exclusive)
Materials
Never in steel

The "President's watch" — so nicknamed because of its association with world leaders from Eisenhower onwards. The Day-Date was the first watch to display the day spelled out fully. The President bracelet remains exclusive to this reference. Dial variety is extraordinary — stone, gem-set, and exotic dials abound.

Est. Market Value$12,000–$40,000+→ Stable
Ref. 1665
Sea-Dweller "Double Red"
1967 – 1977
Dive Helium Escape Valve COMEX Editions
Case
40mm · Oystersteel
Movement
Cal. 1570 · Automatic
Water Resistance
610m (2,000ft)
Special Feature
Helium escape valve · No Cyclops
Double red text Single red text COMEX (extremely rare) Great White

Developed with COMEX saturation divers. The "Double Red" name refers to two lines of red text on the dial. COMEX-issued examples with special engravings are among the most collectible Rolex references. Notable for lacking the Cyclops magnifier — the only no-Cyclops date Rolex.

Est. Market Value$18,000–$120,000+↑ Strong demand

Omega

18 references

Founded in 1848, Omega has earned its place as the official timekeeper of the Olympic Games, the watch on the wrist of NASA astronauts, and the choice of a certain fictional secret agent. Their Speedmaster, Seamaster, and Constellation lines each have deep, layered histories that reward serious study. Omega's blend of technical innovation and accessible pricing (relative to peers) makes them one of the most widely collected fine watch brands.

Speedmaster Family
Ref. 2915
Speedmaster "First Speedy"
1957 – 1959
Chrono Broad Arrow Grail
Case
38.5mm · Steel · Asymmetric case
Movement
Cal. 321 · Column wheel
Tachymetre
On dial (not bezel)
Hands
Broad arrow style
Tachymetre on dial Thin case lugs Calibre 321

The very first Speedmaster, featuring the iconic "Broad Arrow" hands and a tachymetre scale on the dial rather than the bezel. The cal. 321 column-wheel movement inside is a mechanical masterpiece. Three distinct references (2915-1, 2915-2, 2915-3) are distinguished by subtle dial and case changes.

Est. Market Value$60,000–$200,000+↑ Significant appreciation
Ref. 105.003
Speedmaster "Ed White"
1965 – 1968
Chrono NASA First Spacewalk
Case
42mm · Steel · Asymmetric
Movement
Cal. 321 · Column wheel
Crystal
Acrylic · Flat
Historic Event
Worn on first US spacewalk

Named for astronaut Ed White, who wore this reference during the first American spacewalk on Gemini 4 in 1965. The 105.003 is visually similar to modern Moonwatch but features the superior cal. 321 inside. A pivotal piece in both horological and space exploration history.

Est. Market Value$12,000–$35,000↑ Increasing
Ref. 145.022
Speedmaster Professional "Moonwatch"
1968 – 1988
Chrono Moon Worn Apollo XI
Case
42mm · Steel · Asymmetric
Movement
Cal. 861 · Column wheel
Crystal
Acrylic
Historic
Moon-worn Apollo XI, 1969
Apollo XI commemorative Racing dial Various transitional dials

The watch worn on the Moon on July 21, 1969 by Buzz Aldrin (Neil Armstrong left his aboard as backup). Transitioned from cal. 321 to 861 in this era. One of the greatest watches in human history — an unmodified example from the NASA-qualified era is a profound artefact.

Est. Market Value$3,500–$10,000→ Stable
Ref. 310.30.42.50.01.001
Speedmaster Moonwatch (321 Return)
2021 – Present
Chrono Cal. 321 Reborn Current Reference
Case
42mm · Stainless steel · Sapphire caseback
Movement
Cal. 321 (reissued) · Column wheel · 50hr
Crystal
Hesalite acrylic (faithful to original)
Price
~$9,700 retail (significant premium over 861)

Omega revived the legendary cal. 321 movement using reverse engineering and original tooling. The sapphire caseback lets you admire the recreated column wheel. A deeply satisfying "correct" Speedmaster for enthusiasts who care that the original Apollo-era watches used the 321.

Est. Market Value$9,000–$11,000→ Near retail
Ref. 311.92.44.51.01.003
Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon
2013 – Present
Chrono Ceramic Case
Case
44.25mm · Black ceramic
Movement
Cal. 9300 · Co-Axial · In-house
Bezel
Black ceramic tachymetre
Crystal
Sapphire front and back

A bold departure from the classic Moonwatch formula. The full ceramic case is made from a single piece, requiring extraordinary machining precision. Available in black, "Apollo 8" (limited), and other editions. Not to everyone's taste but technically impressive and genuinely distinctive.

Est. Market Value$6,500–$8,500→ Stable
Seamaster Family
Ref. 2913
Seamaster 300 "First 300"
1957 – 1962
Dive 300m WR Trilogy Piece
Case
38.5mm · Steel · Symmetric
Movement
Cal. 283 · Automatic
Water Resistance
300m
Dial
Black · Lollipop seconds hand

Part of Omega's legendary 1957 Trilogy alongside the Speedmaster and Railmaster. One of the finest dive watches of the 1950s. The "lollipop" seconds hand and broad arrow hour hand are signature details. Clean examples in good condition are increasingly difficult to find.

Est. Market Value$10,000–$40,000↑ Increasing
Ref. 2531.80
Seamaster 300M "Bond Watch"
1993 – 2005
Dive James Bond Pop Culture Icon
Case
41mm · Steel
Movement
Cal. 1120 · Automatic
Water Resistance
300m
Dial
Blue wave pattern · Skeleton hands
Blue dial (most famous) Black dial Various "Bond" special editions

First appeared on Pierce Brosnan's wrist in "GoldenEye" (1995), launching Omega's Bond partnership that continues today. The wave-pattern blue dial became one of the most recognisable watch faces of the 1990s. Hugely popular entry point for new collectors.

Est. Market Value$2,500–$4,500→ Stable
Ref. 232.30.46.21.01.001
Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M
2005 – Present
Dive 600m WR Co-Axial
Case
43.5mm / 45.5mm · Steel
Movement
Cal. 8500/9300 · Co-Axial
Water Resistance
600m
Bezel
Ceramic unidirectional

Omega's serious tool diver — more capability than the 300M and a more aggressive aesthetic. The Co-Axial escapement significantly reduces service frequency. Available in orange, blue, and black bezels across many sub-variants. Worn by Daniel Craig as Bond.

Est. Market Value$4,500–$7,500→ Stable
Ref. 210.30.42.20.01.001
Seamaster Diver 300M (Current)
2018 – Present
Dive 300m WR Current
Case
42mm · Steel
Movement
Cal. 8800 · Co-Axial Master Chronometer
Water Resistance
300m
Certification
METAS Master Chronometer

The current generation received the Master Chronometer certification — the most stringent in the industry, including resistance to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss. The rubber and titanium mesh bracelet options added versatility. Excellent value among current in-production dive watches.

Est. Market Value$4,500–$5,800→ Near retail
Constellation, De Ville & Aqua Terra
Ref. 168.005
Constellation "Pie Pan"
1952 – 1970
Dress Observatory Certified Omega's Finest
Case
35mm · Gold or Steel/Gold
Movement
Cal. 551 · Observatory certified
Dial
"Pie pan" stepped dial · Sector design
Caseback
Medallion with observatory engraving

The "Pie Pan" nickname refers to the distinctive stepped dial design — a marvel of elegant design. These watches came with Geneva Observatory chronometer certificates. Considered by many to be the finest dress watches Omega ever produced, combining technical excellence with enduring aesthetics.

Est. Market Value$2,000–$8,000↑ Growing recognition
Ref. 231.10.42.21.02.003
Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M
2002 – Present
Sports Dress 150m WR Co-Axial
Case
41mm · Steel
Movement
Cal. 8900 · Co-Axial · Master Chronometer
Dial
"Teak" horizontal stripe pattern
Bracelet
Integrated steel bracelet

Omega's answer to the sports-luxury crossover. The "teak" dial pattern evokes yacht decking — nautical without being flashy. The current generation with Master Chronometer certification is technically superb. Used by Omega in their ETNZ America's Cup partnership.

Est. Market Value$5,000–$7,500→ Stable
Ref. 435.13.40.21.02.001
De Ville Trésor
2017 – Present
Dress Manual Wind Co-Axial
Case
40mm · Steel or gold · Slim profile
Movement
Cal. 8928 · Manual wind Co-Axial
Crystal
Sapphire front and back
Style
Sector dial · Classic dress

Omega's most serious dress watch — slim, clean, with a beautiful sector dial and the rare distinction of a manual-wind Co-Axial movement. Genuinely competes with much more expensive Swiss dress watches. Often overlooked relative to the sports models but deeply rewarding for formal wear.

Est. Market Value$4,500–$6,500→ Stable
Ref. 3510.50
Speedmaster Reduced
1988 – 2011
Chrono Automatic Smaller Case
Case
39mm · Steel
Movement
Cal. 3220 · Automatic · Column wheel
vs Professional
Automatic wind; no manual crank needed
Crystal
Sapphire

The overlooked sibling of the Professional Moonwatch. The automatic caliber and smaller case make it supremely wearable. Purists sniff at it; practical collectors love it. Now discontinued, rising interest among those who want the Speedy aesthetic at a lower price point.

Est. Market Value$1,500–$3,000↑ Rising
Ref. 145.013
Flightmaster
1969 – 1977
Pilot Chrono Aviation Classic
Case
43mm · Steel · Asymmetric
Movement
Cal. 911 · Manual wind
Features
Chronograph + GMT + 12hr hand
Dial
Multi-function aviation display

The most technically complex analogue Omega of its era. Three functions — chronograph, local time, and GMT — in one extraordinarily legible watch. Considered ahead of its time; the dial design influenced modern pilot watches for decades. A sleeper reference gaining serious collector attention.

Est. Market Value$4,000–$12,000↑ Growing appreciation

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